Tuesday, March 15, 2011

Back to Sewing

Rob and I are going to a 'dinner theater' on March 30 to see Jason McCoy (a Canadian country artist who's from not too far from where we were living for 12 years, but we just couldn't find a time/place to see him). Of course, this means a new outfit, especially since my weight gain last year. I got several patterns last summer during sales, and I really wanted to try sewing knits....but not a summer dress....that limited my patterns to two (I think). One is this one, Butterick 5382: I'm making longish sleeves. I had seen the dress on SlapdashSewist's blog and although we have very different body types, I like this style on me too, as long as it's not too tight around the belly!
But first....what size? I have learned alot about "Full Bust Adjustment" (FBA). According to this idea, I should make a 18 and do a 4" FBA, even though my bust (and waist) are a size 22. My shoulders and back are not a 22, but I'd need that length and width in the front (maybe even a bit more length). I traced out the bodice size 18 and took a look at it, drew some lines, cut some slashes...and sighed...
It seemed like 4" FBA would be a lot for this pattern to handle, and I was struggling with the odd shaped front bodice which is cut laid open, not placed on a fold. The pleats around the neckline mean the shoulders and sides are off at weird angles. Even though the tutorials I looked at said you don't have to do anything to the armhole/sleeve, as I rotated the wedge, the armhole took on a very strange shape (upper right in the photo)!

I gave up on the FBA and decided to cut the neck and shoulder and most of the armhole as an 18, then do the width of the 22 under the arm and it's length. I'm worried about the bodice being too short though, so I wanted to add more length. Oh, that was fun too, LOL. I made side darts to take out the extra length at the sides, but they didn't line up to where the tutorial showed (I think due to where my bust point is and due to the odd shape of the bodice).

Tomorrow I will figure out the re-shaping of the sleeve head and hopefully cut out all the pieces! Wish me luck!


The Slapdash Sewist said...

To answer your question, I only cut the back bodice on the fold, not the back skirt. With my swayback, the back skirt has to have a seam! The back bodice has a straight seam as I recall.

TracyKM said...

I think the smaller sizes of the pattern might have a straight seam in the upper back bodice, while the larger sizes have a slight curve towards the lower part of the upper back bodice. I think I will make it with a seam (and no zipper), as this will make it easier to take in if it needs it. Thanks to you, Slapdash, I have realized that I probably have a sway back too!