Wednesday, November 08, 2017

Lovesick Bra

When I first heard of this pattern, I knew I had to make it. I wish I could even remember where I heard of it! You know how it goes on the interesting site leads to another.... I wasn't totally happy with the free lace one at So Sew Easy and didn't want to fuss with it to get it my size. The lace one I made Lucy--oh wait, I haven't blogged it yet! You can see it on instagram. I know it's going to take a couple tries to get the right size. And I really wanted something simple and cool for the cruise. I thought this bra would make a good bikini pattern, so that was my "muslin".

 I used this fabric which was sold as swimsuit fabric but feels like cotton lycra. I loved the bikini I made for Lucy with it. I made the DD/E cup and the L(12) band. I scooped the back lower, but I didn't think about the fact I should make the straps longer. Usually straps are too long on me, but this time they were too short. It's not bad though--it just makes the back pull up where they attach, rather than a nice smooth line. I used the video tutorial from Ohhh LuLu! for the straps. I used swimsuit lining for the inside.
 The front centre seam does not lay flat and a small discussion on the George & Ginger FB group didn't really help to clear up whether it should or not. I kept oscillating between needing a larger cup, or needing it smaller at that seam. I didn't think either was right. I felt I clearly needed all the volume the cup gave, and maybe even more to wrap around the inside of the breast to meet at my breastbone. But I didn't know if that would fix it, or if it would still sit away from my chest.
I finally decided to curve that centre seam inwards towards the top of the cups, adding 1/4" to the bottom of the cups and almost 1/2" to the top edge between the centre and the strap part. I found on the first one, the angled part where you sew the strap too didn't really show well so I made this one straighter. But I realize now that the flat edge should be angled in the pattern so when you sew the dart, it angles it upwards. Hard to explain. I also went with a L(10) for the back piece and L(12) for the band. I reasoned that if the tops of the centre cups were higher, then my cleavage wouldn't show so much and it wouldn't matter that each breast isn't fully cupped and meeting at the centre.
 I was feeling particularly bloated this day! I also couldn't get the dart points to be flat! I was using wicking jersey from the diaper making days and bathing suit mesh/power mesh (or net?) inside. I saw that the fabric wrinkled on the sides,  so I reattached the band at the sides and took that bit off.
 I used wide stretch lace for the straps. I cut it narrow and folded over the inside edge with elastic. I only had swimsuit elastic which has a beige tint to it, so it kind of looks dirty. But overall I like it! It's super comfortable.
 Hubby had a lot of issues with being my photographer. He gets distracted easily.

He can't believe I was going to put this on my blog. Well, I told him I wouldn't put that picture on, but the others? Sure. Why not! Flat Lay pictures are nice for details and shape, but there's nothing like seeing a pattern on a REAL person. Keeping it real here folks.

 Trying out flat lay photos. I liked this shot but it's not getting many likes on Instagram.
 I wore the bikini top as a bra too. Fun! Though I suppose it just looked like a bikini top under my tank top, since we were on a cruise ship.
For some reason my husband likes to take angled pictures of me. Maybe it makes me look taller?

 You can see here how the back pulls up at the straps. I had drafted the back so it sloped down from the side seam to about 1/3 across and then straight to the centre (and mirrored). It seems okay though.  I wore it under my clothes when we did an off road four wheeling adventure.  We were told we were going to a beach without any amenities. We finally got there and it was several different resorts along this beach, with bathrooms and outdoor showers. It was an interesting excursion that went two hours longer than we were told!
I wore it on the trip home from the cruise. This happened during lunch at the Miami airport! It went through the shirt and onto the bra. Luckily I had another top in my carryon. Oh well. It was shockingly, the only time I did that on the entire trip! It was so comfy for travel! I want to make more! Maybe even in lace?

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