I found the sketch for the top from the teen book, so I decided to try it, just to see how the mechanics of it worked. You use a triangle based on your cup size, and then hack off the bottom corners based also on your cup size. I decided to err on the side of caution (and my larger boob) and go with a DD cup!! Oy.
The flat area at the bottom gets gathered. This pulls the short angled parts downwards into line with the flat area. Wow, that really got my brain rolling. Along with finding a forum where another lady had a similar issue and was told she needed more curvature along the bottom.I did much googling and found out that the type of skirt I wanted had 'godets' not gores. This would mean 4-6 panels, with triangles at the bottom. I thought this was going to be a great way to make the narrow fabric be wider and 'swishier'. However, there are a lot of seams...each eating away at some fabric....I was happy with the construction, however, the cups didn't offer enough coverage on the sides, but they did lay flat on the chest! And lets not talk about how the skirt portion fits. I could pull it up quite a bit and find it's "sweet spot" but that made the skirt too short!
I was energized to re-draft the bodice of the original pattern, with more curvature. I didn't have time or fabric to make another test dress, so I was just going to use intuition!