Wednesday, August 31, 2022

Boxy Pouches

 I get many emails each week from sewing pattern companies and blogs. One had a link to a pattern for an easy box pouch. I took a look at it and noticed the inside seams were exposed. I knew there had to be a better pattern out there, and I went down the dark rabbit hole of pouch patterns! OMG. So many tutorials out there. Here are some links:

https://youtu.be/Yr_A8Zfbq9w this is the one I primarily used. It's good, though not the ultimate. She shows stitching from the seam line, like Ikat Bag, but when doing the side seams, the top stitching end is exposed. 

http://www.ikatbag.com/2016/01/zip-bag-chapter-4-faced-zippers-darted.html this is very technical post, no video. 

https://youtu.be/w9kZMTNoF58 this one was really good! I highly recommend it. I did have some issues with the sides and getting the "over the zipper" seam to match with the side seams. Not sure I'd do it this way again, but maybe if you're a very accurate cutter and sewist. My pieces had.... issues. LOL.

https://youtu.be/N5Akv6LjVaw this is for tiny pouches, but they're so cute!

https://youtu.be/BJQT-UWls_Q These are a little more complex, but the basics are still the same

I have become obsessed with the last two's channel, OklaRoots! 


I started with the first link above, using her measurements in the video. I really thought it would be bigger, and I certainly have the fabric to make bigger versions! 


I bought the fabrics from Fabcycle  and they were quilt cottons, but I was expecting a garment fabric. It's the dark, turquoise/teal pouch, with structure. I didn't use the fleece interfacing, I used a stiff sew on interfacing, but I have iron on fusible web, so I applied that and then ironed on the interfacing. 


This shows how you stop the top stitching at 1/2" from the side edge, but the side seams were sewn at 3/8" seam allowance, so there's a little gap there. I also did my first line of top stitching on the pull tab too far from the open edge, so I had to do another line closer to the edge. Because I trimmed my zipper too soon, it was hard to sew that bit. 

I did slip stitch the lining closed. It's not hard to do and is just that little bit nicer.

Being interfaced with the stiff iron on stuff, makes this pouch quite structured. However, being small, that did make it harder to sew the darts. Since the seams are closer together, that also gives structure, and it probably didn't need quite that stiff of interfacing. So keep this in mind when working with smaller sizes.

I then made the "Men at Work" bag, but I didn't interface the whole outside piece. I made it up to sewing the side seams, and pressed it with the bottom seam lining up with the zipper. I interfaced just that flat portion, and accidentally used a lighter interfacing. I thought it would good having the upper part squishy, so it can be compressed in luggage. The stiffer one, I worry that squishing it will make the interfacing wrinkle and lose structure. At first, Rob liked it, but then he saw the stiff one and said he thought that was better. I used the large size measurements from the web post, not the video.  11"x14".

 The inside fabric is some sort of brocade, not cotton, that I've had more than 13 years (I date things from before or after our move to our current house LOL. I had used it to try to make a blazer sort of jacket, and have quite a bit left. It's hefty, but has no structure and pretty much no ironability). 

The butterfly one, I used the third link above, but the same measurements as the Men at Work bag (11"x14"). I did the same thing for the interfacing. I had trouble getting the side seams to connect. Not sure why it's done this way. Ikat Bag says to be sure to "assign the zipper" to one layer only. The end result of both ways is slightly different, but I don't see a benefit to either way. They were both fine. 

You can see where the interfacing ends; this one definitely had the stiff sewn in one (I used fusible web to make it fusible). I also trimmed it so it wasn't in the seam allowances. 

After this, I found the tutorials for using one piece (like vinyl) to create the bottom section, and another piece for the sides. That's great for giving it stability too, or using a waterproof material because you know it's going on a wet bathroom counter LOL. I'll be doing one like that next.

The zippers were all from my stash, the first two were definitely old, and metal. 

What I learned...don't trim the zipper too soon. Wait till after sewing the side seams. 

Mark where you'll be cutting the corners out, and when you sew the side seams, start at those marks, backstitching. If you just sew up the sides, then cut the corners, the side seams will start to unravel. You can go back and reinforce these before boxing the darts, but why not just do it from the start? Some patterns do have you cut the darts when you're cutting the fabric out, which does solve this, but makes cutting the fabric a bit slower. 

The little tabs are essential for helping open the zipper. Don't make them too narrow though; it was hard to align with the zipper exactly. 

Have fun with these! I'm going to make more. They don't take a lot of fabric, but have a big wow factor, and really don't take long at all! 




Wednesday, August 17, 2022

Another Go at an Old Pattern

 This is one of the quickest fabric purchase to wearing makes in a long time LOL. I bought the fabric at Talize (thrift) store on July 22, and wore the dress on August 15! When I bought the fabric, I thought I might use it for another pattern that I was working on updating the alterations for (I did finish that one but don't have a picture wearing it yet), but decided it was too thin for that one. I had always liked Simplicity 3506  but there had been an issue with the fit. I got it out and took a look.

I'm not sure what I had done to the pattern! The seam between the yoke and the bodice was really angled. There was also a line drawn across it, straight. I pretty much chopped off the top of the front pattern piece and redid it (the FBA seemed okay). I cut out the front piece, using the dress line and slide the fabric up to cut out the backs. 

Ummm. My fabric was shorter than I thought! The back was three inches shorter! I went for it anyway, thinking it could just become a top if it was too short as a dress. Good thing I'm short!


I didn't want to do the facings, because the fabric was so sheer. I thought I might do bias binding again, but there wasn't much fabric left over, and I didn't want to deal with the slippery fabric! I serged the edge, then turned it under twice. I did add pockets! I didn't do the zipper, and I ended up taking the back darts in a bit more. The sides could also be taken in a bit but I like the relaxed fit. 

I know it's a little pale, and it's 100% polyester but I like it. It wasn't too hot, despite being polyester. I wore a cami with a shelf bra, and a beige slip under it, and felt comfortable. Though when I took it off, I realized I hadn't washed off the marking dots! They really weren't very noticeable! This is another great basic pattern for quick makes that each look unique. 


I think the wavy lines makes the neckline look a little misshapened...which it could be, considering the slipperiness of the fabric LOL. They lines look pretty neat on the back though. 

Sunday, August 14, 2022

I'm So Trendy

 I was struggling with my laptop earlier this spring. It was suddenly out of memory. I took off all my pictures, Cricut files, sewing files, work files, everything. Still out of memory. Had a tech guy look at it, and he said each update of Windows takes up more space and eventually you just run out. It did have a small hard drive, but had been fine for 2.5 years. I really thought it should last a while longer. So I splurged on a really good laptop. Frankly, it's not much different. It has a larger screen, but most of the increase is horizontal and I would have prefered more vertical increase. The sound is WAY better though, and I can plug my camera card in directly, as well as the projectors at schools. Anyway. I was recently going through the USBs that I had saved everything onto, and found some sewing patterns I forgot I had. This especially happens with free patterns, it seems.

This is the Be Trendy halter top from Ellie and Mac. It's been discontinued, so I won't bother linking. Free patterns are a great way to test if a designer's "blocks" work well with your body. Do they design for an hour glass? A slim shape? Busty shapes? And also things like how well the patterns print, go together, are written. I did find a typo in the pattern and a few awkward instructions. I wasn't keen on the wide bottom band, especially since I was doing a solid fabric that wasn't all that drapey. So I eliminated that on my first one, and added what I thought was a reasonable length.

It's a bit short, I feel. And it's obvious I need a FBA, by the diagonal drag lines from the bust to the sides. But I really liked it! I made a shelf bra (totally messed it up of course LOL). Normally I don't like things knotted behind my neck, but this was okay.

I made a second one, a bit longer, and with a FBA. I made chiffon ties because I wanted this one to look a little upscale. I thought I made them wide enough so they'd be somewhat of a feature, but by the time I turned the tubes right side out, they were still narrow (I did widen it out towards the end, but it's not much). I hate chiffon LOL. I am now almost out of the soft elastic I got from somewhere, that I use for the shelf bras. Not enough for one more. Neither of these are lined, they just have the shelf bra sewn to the top edges. The bottoms are hemmed with a blind stitch. 

I really like this top. Simple patterns like this are great for customizing, making mutliples in different fabrics and colours. I'm not sure if I can wear these to work. A little bare without a light cardi over top! But great for in my truck with no air conditioning! We'll see. I have lots of hot weather dresses and tank tops that are suitable anyway.

The pattern is discontinued, which is too bad, but I’m sure there’s probably something similar out there.

Monday, August 01, 2022

Is it Summer Yet?

 At the start of summer break, I planned to having a relaxing summer. I wanted to draw, practice flute, clean out my email inbox, walk daily, practice yoga daily, sew....So how's that going? I've gotten some art ready for stickers, but haven't actually drawn any new art. I practiced flute for about 15 minutes. I started the summer with shoulder pain so the flute, and yoga, had to be put on hold. I have been walking a lot--30 minutes daily, M-F and some on the weekend, as well as an almost daily 25 min walk with the dog after dinner (not fitness walking at all LOL). I have done a bit of sewing, which I'll go over. Also finished up a charity crocheted blanket and started a Christmas stocking. I have also had doctor's appointments, x-rays, ultrasound, physio, dentist, eye doctor...middle kid got her wisdom teeth out, both girls have jobs and need rides, youngest has the rink twice a week...it's been a lovely summer though not the relaxing, do nothing summer I thought it would be

One day, I got a phone call from an elderly man who's quite popular in our community FB group. I had previously repaired an old wool Mary Maxim jacket for him, and now he had a wool blanket he kept in the car that had a few holes. I said I'd take a look. 
Turns out, it's woven, not knitted, but this gave me a great opportunity to learn how to do mending using the weaving method! One of those things I thought I'd learn at some point. 
It wasn't too hard! He was very pleased with it. I also made sure to give it a good bath in wool wash. 

As well as making stickers on my Cricut, I made IG address decals for our trucks, and new dishwasher magnets. I was planning to make the silver one, white, but it was too transparent. The Tricolour one will be sent to my eldest. He expressed interest in having one, but didn't like our original one since when the Clean was upright, it was on the bottom. So I fixed that. 

I despartely needed new slippers. I loved the gold ones I had, with suede soles. I'm out of suede, so I got out the ToughTech I bought for swim shoes in the summer of 2019, as part of the cruise prep. 
I also wanted a new sleep mask. Currently, I use a dark coloured buff. It works fine but thought maybe something new would be nice. I wanted something with some shape, as commercial sleep masks gape along my nose. I had seen some really cool shaped ones on Amazon and thought maybe I could make something. I had a hard time finding a pattern, eventually landing on this one by a Korean YouTuber, for a contoured eye mask. She created it so it wouldn't rub on her eyelashes. It's supposed to bubble outwards, reminds me of fly eyes, LOL. However, my interfacing was too weak (she didn't specify in the video), and my fabric too wimpy, so I don't quite get that same effeect. Plus, I had trouble sewing the slippery fabric, then I trimmed the seams, turned right side out, and discovered I had sewn the elastic into the seam. Picked it out, re-stitched, turned right side out, and discovered that I must have snipped the elastic when I was snipping the seam allowance on the curves. So I had to rejoin the ends. Overlapping the ends has made the elastic just a smidge too small now, and I wake up with a blue line across my forehead. There is still some gaping around my nose, but it's not too bad. I think next time, I'll just make a flat one LOL.

One of the lettering tutorials I followed early in the summer. Going to make it into stickers.

There is a long story with this. The short version is I combined some different pieces I did into one, and made a background for my new laptop. The two mushrooms with faces, I drew them just by looking at reference photos! I'm so proud of them!
Megan bought a dirtbike, but has been cursed. Another attempt to go out and this happened. Sigh. Poor girl.

Finished this corner to corner crocheted blanket for the seniors. 

As I was getting near the end, I realized I wouldn't have enough of the green blend. So I created a plan to increase the pink (previously it had been one row) and decreased the green (it had been two rows). It's not quite the transition I was envisioning, but it's done. It weighed 600grams.

I made two versions of this dress very early in my sewing hobby--2007. I learned the hard way about full bust adjustments. Actually, I didn't learn it then, but this pattern showed why I needed a FBA. Check out New Look 6557 in the Labels section.
I found this pattern at a thrift shop and it seemed complete. It's similar to the above pattern, and Simplicity is the parent company. This one doesn't have the midriff band, and uses pleats in the bust instead of gathers. I thought I'd give it a try finally, but found it was missing all the bodice pieces except the front upper bodice. So I'm merging the two patterns.

I tried on the second version of the New Look dress that I made in 2007. I could zip it up this time, but after much searching, I found the original picture (which I didn't seem to blog!).
My bust is definitely bigger now! This was 6 months after the reduction, and a month after recovering from giardia.
This is the first test of the new mash up. It's just the top portion. It felt a little bare and revealing in the V neck. So I altered the pattern pieces a bit more.
On the last few inches of sewing the lining to the bodice and I run out of bobbin thread. I start winding a new one, get halfway full, and suddenly the machine starts slipping. My other machine is getting looked at because it started making a noise! Ack. For the last year, every time I ran out of a bobbin, I tended to just grab whatever was somewhat close and already filled Now I'm down to a few bobbins, and they're those colours. Argh.

And that's pretty much it for now!

Yarn In: 150gr

Yarn Out:  600gr + 20gr = 620gr

Difference:  470gr more OUT than in

Costs: $15.22/213 days = $0.07