Sinclair Patterns "Vera" dress

 I think I bought this pattern during it's release. I don't really have recollection of it. Or maybe when they were having a sale. At some point early this summer, I came across "Lifting Pins and Needles" version. I watched her channel on and off over the years and this one caught my eye. It was exactly what I needed to replace an existing rayon sundress that was starting to actually get holes. Somehow I got distracted in my quest for a sleeveless tank and got obsessed with making a Vera. 

I had some good fabric I could use, but nothing for a muslin. I went to my local Giant Tiger, a discount chain store in Canada. They always have cheap sheet sets. I picked out this nice grey set, came home and washed it up. There didn't seem to be a top sheet, but I had already recycled the packaging...but I do remember it was packed up like from the factory, so I guess they don't come with top sheets now?

The fabric sucked. It was slippery. It frayed like crazy. The only thing going for it was I could tell the right side from the wrong side. I even managed to melt a tiny bit in a shoulder strap. 

I had heavily debated on what size to make. My measurements put me at an 18 with a C/D cup, but that wasn't sitting well with me. I'd been struggling with my health and looked bloated and heavy. I didn't know if I had measured poorly, or it was a bad day, or what. I asked Karina in the comments of her blog about the sizing. There seemed to be a typo in the pattern that said the waist ease was 30cm or 4" which are not the same. I could get the same finished chest size using the 18 C/D or the 16 E/F (but both were a smidge less ease than what was recommended). I just did not feel like an 18. Karina said to go by the measurements, do not randomly choose. Well, I wasn't randomly choosing--I've made many items that were too wide in the shoulders because I was trying to fit my bust. 

In the end, I went with the 16 E/F, petite file. 

I posted it to the Sinclair Patterns group on Facebook, because I couldn't believe it seemed to fit without any adjustments! This wasn't the picture I posted but I think I deleted it. Several noticed the rug edge and thought I had made an angled hem.

I wasn't sure about the dart. Surely I should have to lower it, since I'm not 30, but it actually was where the directions said it should be.

I put pins in to mark the dart tips. This is so not a flattering angle LOL. The darts have a bit of a bubble, but did I mention how terrible the fabric was?

I also felt the neck was little high, though it didn't look like that in the sample photos or on Karina.

I wore it for the afternoon and decided I needed to let out the side bust seams just a little. I took them out 1/4, which was easy because I made the facing version, so it's much simpler to adjust than if I had bound them. There was no way I was making binding from that fabric.

I made the side seam pockets, awesome. It would really benefit from some ties but did I mention the fabric? 

I made it while making and eating dinner. And of course, got something on it. I prompted washed it, gently scrubbing the spot with stain remover and my gentle brush. Pulled it out of the dryer (only dry for a few minutes, then hang to finish), and noticed the colour had been affected where I scrubbed.

I was so sad! I could still wear it with a scarf I think. I don't seem to have a full length picture of it on.

I adjusted my pattern, adding 1/4" to the front and back seams from the waist notch to the armhole. I lowered the dart 1/2" because the opinion was rather split in the FB group on if I should. I had this gorgeous linen (blend?) and got to work.  I also lowered the neckline a bit.

What a difference a good fabric makes. So much easier to cut and press. I did have some issues with the lining matching up, but it was late at night and I think I was rushing. It worked fine the next day when I took my time and used a million pins.

The strange this is....this one is a bit LOOSE under the arms! What?! It'll be easy to take it in. I just need to wear it again to decide how much to take it in. I bought some more fabric, a bright pink floral in 100% cotton. We're going to Jamaica in October, so I hope to have it done by then! One month, actually!

Welding Cap

 Megan came home for a quick visit. She worked the night shift, then drove 15 hours, was here for 3 days, drove back, and worked the next day. The last day she was here, I realize I should have made her a new welding cap. Well, I had the day to make one! And it's a good thing I hadn't made one because she picked out a combo I wouldn't have LOL. 

I looked back at my last post on the welding caps to refresh my memory what I did. It still left questions LOL. 

I still had trouble matching up at the top. I tried switching from 1/2" to 5/8" but still had some puckering.

This was the inside so not a huge deal. She doesn't like to reverse sides; one is always the inside after the first wearing.

It feels a little dull to me. She likes it though.

She wouldn't model it--too busy doing something with Dad. So I found a stand in, using the fun faces.

Then I found this fellow! When you take the picture it actually makes a little opossum noise and he wiggles. 

She'd like something a little more stiff, like the one we bought on Etsy for her birthday two years ago. I found a Toronto fabric store with a good online shopping website, and they have some different canvases. I ordered some fabric for another project and they sent samples. One was for the solid colour canvas. I think it will work well! It's still pretty lightweight, but stiffer than quilting cotton. You can see the weave, and it's a bit open (not like, a mesh), but I suspect it will bloom when washed. 

Have you used any canvas types fabric for welding caps? Let me know!

Don't Give Up!

 I was getting frustrated. Before I finished the tank top in the last post, I had made another tank top. Technically, it did fit, but I knew it didn't fit like it should. I started taking it apart but the serger and sewing machines were all threaded with black, so I left it for a bit.

Let's back up a bit. When I decided it was time to sew a few things this summer, I knew I wanted a couple tank tops. I find them good for work, with a cardi over if it's cooler. I get hot when I work. I found a skirt in my stash that had already been started taking apart. It was sort of silk feeling, but not silk texture, especially on the reverse. It was a two tiered skirt and I thought surely I'd have enough for a tank top. But no. The panels were short, and not as long as I thought. It took a lot of fiddling to make this work, and it does have a centre front seam. 

This is Simplicity 2938. I had made it before and like the design, but not my outcome. I never wear it. I knew it needed a do-over.

And this was not the do-over I wanted. Argh. I learned my lesson and had serged the pieces individually before sewing, but I hadn't tried it on before adding the bands, which were a PITA (Pain In The A..) to make (they would not press) and sew on.

So, I unpicked the bands. Here's a tip (besides trying on before sewing the bands on). Sew the bands on before sewing the side seams. Sew the bands right to the cut edge. That way, if you want to let out or take in the side seams, you don't have to remove the band! Next time.

So, I try to get my presser foot in as close to the neck/armhole as I could, and sew a smaller seam allowance. Then I had to rip out the original seam. And guess what I did--multiple times? Ripped the stitches of the new seam!! Good grief. 

I still wasn't happy. It was a slap slop job.  I ripped off the bands, and let out the front and side seams the proper way. It had been sewn with 5/8" seams, and there were three across the centre front, plus two side seams (and a back seam), so I could let it out quite a bit.

And....then I noticed that I had something sticky on my NEW iron. WTF. Where did that come from? I googled how to clean it. Soaked it in vinegar for a bit, that didn't work. Tried rubbing alcohol on a pad. I forgot that the new iron auto turns on when you put it horizontal, and didn't realize it got hot, and it melted the pad with the alcohol. Finally, I got it scraped off with my glass stove top scraper. 

I realized, when I got back to sewing, what had happened. 

Really?!! Somehow, I had melted the shirt. And then did it a second time! I hadn't adjusted the heat setting, so I don't know what happened. Yeah, so obviously, it's NOT silk LOL. Luckily, it's not too noticeable, near the underarm seam. 

Anyway, I persevered. I really liked the fabric! 

Trying to get photos on our evening walk LOL. 

I don't really recommend adding the centre front seam, but it worked in this heavily patterned, drapey fabric. If you alter this pattern, be careful about just adding to the centre front panel. You don't want to widen the neckline too much (unless you need to). Doing a FBA on a princess seam is tricky. You still want that seam where it's supposed to be. You can easily reduce the seam allowances at the sides and fronts to 3/8", and that would get you 1 1/2" more across the front part. If you need more, look up doing a FBA on princess seams. I did add a bit to the centre panel (reduced down to the original at the neck), but I think it balloons out a bit. 

This pattern though, is great for narrower pieces of fabric, given that the front is 3 pieces. It would also be cool to colour block. I will definitely try it again, but I bought some Love Notions patterns when they just had a big sale last week and one was a tank top. And I'm working on Sinclair Patterns' "Vera Dress", and loving that. So many patterns, so little time!

Sewing Slump

 Sewing has not been enjoyable lately. 

I started with measurements....l knew they'd be bigger than last time, but it's still depressing.

I have a woven dress pattern I want to make. I couldn't find any fabric to make a muslin, not even for a top version. 

I thought maybe I'd whip up some tank tops to freshen up my closet (as you saw in the last post). I didn't even have enough suitable fabric! I am working on one top that has three front pieces and the fabric is from a thrifted skirt. 

I went to Giant Tiger (a Canadian discount store), and bought some sheets and pillowcases (they had $1 pillowcases!). Of course, they're just 100% polyester, feel cheap, but are cute. I cut open the pillowcases. They're made with two side seams, so you end up with a long slim rectangle with the deep hems at either short side. I was hoping they'd have three seams and be two rectangles, but I can cut them. However, they aren't wide enough for me to use as a tank with one front piece. 

I couldn't find a plain woven tank pattern in my collection that was large enough. I came across the Sorbetto and remember trying it years ago (a quick search showed I used it for a smocked dress). Apparently the pattern has been updated.  There's regular fit for sizes 0-16 and curvy fit for 18-? I measured at about the 18, but I didn't like the larger armholes and I don't feel like I'm an 18 in my structure, if that makes sense. I cut the 16, with plans to add to the side seams from the armholes down.

I downloaded the "ALL" file and then struggled with printing just what I needed. Don't do this unless you're going to print ALL three versions. I was trying to print the 16 and the 18 and ended up wasting paper and getting a size 18 version 3 back, but no version 1...

I contemplated using the pillowcases, and hiding a front seam under the pleat. I did some figuring and folding, and then slapped myself straight. Back to the stash.

I finally landed on this black fabric that I'm sure I made pants from (I mean, I have black woven pants that I sewed myself. This fabric just feels a bit thinner). It is a light fabric, high cotton content, but the drape was a little lacking.  No matter, it'll soften up in the wash, right?

My ironing board cover is not thick enough, or flat enough! I laid some fabric on top but I really need a new cover.

I laid it out, adding 1/4" (I think) at the fold and 1/2" on the sides. 

I learned my lesson and serged the pieces first. I had another lesson to learn which is in the tank I mention above and hopefully will be the next post. Try it on BEFORE adding bindings or hemming!!

It was too big!! I ripped it out and re-cut using the size 16 (but there was still half an inch in the middle).  I also lowered the darts 1" (I really had no idea how much to lower but I could fit it a 1" lowering on the cut pieces). I also lengthened the dart based on how it draped.

I didn't realize you're supposed to iron the pleat all the way down and stitch it closed at the bottom too. Had to go back and fix that (though as you'll see, it would probably have been better if I left it open).

The binding. OMG. It's 1" bias tape, double folded. I made what I thought was a good sized square, and made the continuous bias binding. Then, when cutting, I had a hard time cutting straight! How do you do it? I saw a video and they just cut along the line with no issue! So now my tape was not consistently 1". I was burning myself trying to iron the folds. 

The pattern has you fold it to the outside! I could not sew nicely. I had a few spots where the edge popped out and i had to resew. It puckered around the first armhole. When I pinned the neck binding, there was a seam in the binding just off centre of the front! I could not tolerate that! I shifted it around, trying to find a section of the binding that was long enough so there wasn't a seam on the front. I coudn't do it! I ended up with seams just forward of the shoulder seams. 

I finished and tried it on. 

The pleat won't stay tucked in.

I got a pucker on the inside (thankfully it was on the inside!).

Ever heard the saying that homemade looks "Becky Home Ec-cy"? This top looks cheap and poorly made. There isn't enough drape. The pleat sewn in at the bottom prevents some floatiness, and something went wrong when I sewed it and it won't stay tucked. The back is a little loose and shapeless. It seems too short for its width. I'm not even going to model it.

Love Notions had a big sale this weekend, and I picked up a couple patterns, including the Harmony Blouse. Hopefully it'll be the one for me to turn into a TNT pattern. As for this tank? I don't think it should even be donated to the thrift store. 

I did learn about the edge foot though, so I ordered one on Amazon. Hope it fits my machine! And helps my sewing look like it wasn't topstitched by a drunken monkey.

Try Again!

 Ah, Simplicity 3506. I'm still uncertain if I like you, or just tolerate you. I thought the first one I made was the white one (seen in the last part of the second post (now third, since this post will be part of that chain). It was the the second? The blue and white one was the first? I don't even know where the white one is now.  It was a little stiff. The blue and white one I do like (I have a pair of earrings that match perfect) but it's a little small now. When I got the pattern out, I thought the blue and white one was the last one I made so I did some enlarging of the pattern. Then I remembered about the dress, which does fit me (I think--I don't reach for it a lot and I made it during the summer I was training for a vacation that was going to include a lot of hiking).  

So many changes to the pattern! 

My cutting table is also the dining room table. China plates make great pattern weights!

The fabric is some OLD cotton I bought when I was still pretty new to sewing. I made Megan a dress, summer of 2010. She picked out the fabric. Then I made myself a top, in 2015. I don't know where that top is now either. It is a very light cotton, but not flowy drapey like rayon or polyester. I knew I was pushing my luck by doing Simplicity 3506--it really should be fluid fabric so the shoulder gathers will drape nicely. 

It stands out a bit due to the cotton.

I made bias binding, double fold, I think I cut it 2" wide. I shortened the V neck because the blue one had issues, but  I don't think I needed to with this one. The ties kind of sit weird, but look at that cute bow! 

I did a nice job with the armholes, even though they're just turned under 5/8". 

Still had troubles with getting the gathers in the exact right spot. I don't think that's the issue with the fold of fabric inside of the armhole. I think it's just because the design is meant to sit over the shoulder edge. 

I think it'll be cute with the one pair of white shorts I have, and the bright green pants I have that I don't wear because I'm afraid they are going to fall apart because I've worn them so much. Other than the shorts, I'm not sure if I have anything to wear with it!

One thing I did this time, after learning my lesson on the blue shorts, is I serged all the pieces before starting assembly. It didn't take too long! It'll mean I can easily take in seams (because I'm definitely NOT letting seams out). I'm making this a new habit now. 

Sequoia Shorts

 I don't wear shorts a lot but I like having a few basic pairs.  I know I need to sew some Sequoia pants (by Itch to Stitch) soon, but the ones I currently have are a bit snug. The paper pattern has been adjusted here and there, and my initial print job was terrible (accidentally printing on paper that I had printed another pattern on the other side). I thought it was time to re-print and start fresh. Shorts would be a great way to refine the pattern without the fabric commitment of pants (I mean, I'm pretty short, so it's not THAT much of a fabric commitment but you know what I mean). 

These are made of the same fabric as the Sequoia pants I made. I love those pants, but they're a smidge tight and I think there's a stain on one thigh. I wear them a lot. 

When I make the pants, I don't do the back pocket. I do the cargo pockets on pants but since the shorts don't have those, I thought I should add the back pocket. I narrowed it in a bit. I believe the pattern uses the same size pocket for all sizes and I just thought I could do with a bit narrower of a pocket.

I made the inside of the self-drafted yoga band waist with power mesh. However, the band is a little too big for it to have any actual effect. I had done this on the skirts I made last year and liked it, but those were not self drafted, and they were much more snug. The power mesh is also very slippery!  I added a narrow elastic which I sewed to the seam allowance of the top of the waistband. 

I love these shorts, though I felt they could be a little bit longer--just an inch or two. Mainly because in my truck, I have leather seats and no air conditioning. I decided to make a blue pair. I do have a pair of blue linen shorts but they're cute and shorter. I think I used the same fabric as the blue Sequoia pants that I made, but I'm not sure because as I was putting away the left over, I found even more blue cotton-ish fabric and these actually feel a bit more crisp.

I laid them out and it seemed like I had enough. I cut the fronts, not on the fold, but with the fabric folded. I had folded it only enough for the fronts so then I opened it for the backs and cut the first back. And then went to cut the second back and uh...it wasn't long enough!

My first thought was I could draft a back yoke. Then I came to my senses, and carefully laid the pattern piece down, trying to get as much length as I could. It ended up being only 1/4" too short. I had made the other pieces about 1.25" longer than the pattern, so I was still going to have a pair slightly longer than the grey ones.

It was all going really well, until I tried them on, before adding the waist. I had some doubts about what size I had made for the grey pair as I could see marks from the tracing wheel on the smaller size in some places. When I tried them on, I decided the back thighs needed to lose about 1/2" from the hip down as they were pushing the seam outwards. Because there's the pockets on the front and I didn't want to lose any pocket width, I started to take apart the side seam. Then I realized I had serged the seam allowances together! I was not about to take out the serging, so I opted to just re-stitch the seam about 1/4" smaller from near the bottom of the pocket and be done with it.

I put together the waistband (taking off about 1/2" from each end of each piece) and went to sew it on. I got about 3" serged to the shorts and I realized I hadn't added the elastic! I unpicked what I had sewn. Of course, I had none, other than narrow elastic and I prefer something wider. I also realized I hadn't done the drawstring holes! Then I realized that I had actually been sewing the waistband to the shorts upside down! I had serged the inside and the outside bands together along the top. Previously, I had also serged, or basted the bottom, to make it easier to catch all edges when adding to the body. I just wasn't paying attention!

I found this bias tape that I had made for a pair of shorts for Lucy or Megan, and just stitched it closed to make a drawstring. I'm not sure I'm all that keen on it, though I think it's actually the waistband colour I'm not fond of. I went to Wal-Mart and got some wide, non roll elastic, and got these finished last night.

Ohhhh, the snaps. The snaps that made me get a new iron LOL. I had my big bag of snaps on my ironing board. I don't have any dark blue ones, just royal blue which had the Captain America (I think) symbol on them. I knew these were not a match (and are actually more teal that I realized), but they have a My Little Pony on them, so I had to. I rarely tuck my shirts in and probably won't because the waistband doesn't match all that well, so it's just a little secret I'll have.

I'm debating adding a loop for clipping keys to, or a small snap pocket on the front. Also, I now have 2 different puffers, and I think I need a little pouch with a clip for the "rescue" inhaler. 

I LOVE these shorts too. A bit more body than the grey ones, they fit amazing. They do however, attract lint! They also remind me a little of a Girl Guides uniform, but that's fine. Classic and long lasting!

Updated with another photo! 

This is the striped T-shirt I made back in my spring sewing spree. (Itch to Stitch "Kashi"). I quite like it, though the blue did bleed in the armpits!