Sinclair Patterns "Vera" dress

 I think I bought this pattern during it's release. I don't really have recollection of it. Or maybe when they were having a sale. At some point early this summer, I came across "Lifting Pins and Needles" version. I watched her channel on and off over the years and this one caught my eye. It was exactly what I needed to replace an existing rayon sundress that was starting to actually get holes. Somehow I got distracted in my quest for a sleeveless tank and got obsessed with making a Vera. 

I had some good fabric I could use, but nothing for a muslin. I went to my local Giant Tiger, a discount chain store in Canada. They always have cheap sheet sets. I picked out this nice grey set, came home and washed it up. There didn't seem to be a top sheet, but I had already recycled the packaging...but I do remember it was packed up like from the factory, so I guess they don't come with top sheets now?

The fabric sucked. It was slippery. It frayed like crazy. The only thing going for it was I could tell the right side from the wrong side. I even managed to melt a tiny bit in a shoulder strap. 

I had heavily debated on what size to make. My measurements put me at an 18 with a C/D cup, but that wasn't sitting well with me. I'd been struggling with my health and looked bloated and heavy. I didn't know if I had measured poorly, or it was a bad day, or what. I asked Karina in the comments of her blog about the sizing. There seemed to be a typo in the pattern that said the waist ease was 30cm or 4" which are not the same. I could get the same finished chest size using the 18 C/D or the 16 E/F (but both were a smidge less ease than what was recommended). I just did not feel like an 18. Karina said to go by the measurements, do not randomly choose. Well, I wasn't randomly choosing--I've made many items that were too wide in the shoulders because I was trying to fit my bust. 

In the end, I went with the 16 E/F, petite file. 

I posted it to the Sinclair Patterns group on Facebook, because I couldn't believe it seemed to fit without any adjustments! This wasn't the picture I posted but I think I deleted it. Several noticed the rug edge and thought I had made an angled hem.

I wasn't sure about the dart. Surely I should have to lower it, since I'm not 30, but it actually was where the directions said it should be.

I put pins in to mark the dart tips. This is so not a flattering angle LOL. The darts have a bit of a bubble, but did I mention how terrible the fabric was?

I also felt the neck was little high, though it didn't look like that in the sample photos or on Karina.

I wore it for the afternoon and decided I needed to let out the side bust seams just a little. I took them out 1/4, which was easy because I made the facing version, so it's much simpler to adjust than if I had bound them. There was no way I was making binding from that fabric.

I made the side seam pockets, awesome. It would really benefit from some ties but did I mention the fabric? 

I made it while making and eating dinner. And of course, got something on it. I prompted washed it, gently scrubbing the spot with stain remover and my gentle brush. Pulled it out of the dryer (only dry for a few minutes, then hang to finish), and noticed the colour had been affected where I scrubbed.

I was so sad! I could still wear it with a scarf I think. I don't seem to have a full length picture of it on.

I adjusted my pattern, adding 1/4" to the front and back seams from the waist notch to the armhole. I lowered the dart 1/2" because the opinion was rather split in the FB group on if I should. I had this gorgeous linen (blend?) and got to work.  I also lowered the neckline a bit.

What a difference a good fabric makes. So much easier to cut and press. I did have some issues with the lining matching up, but it was late at night and I think I was rushing. It worked fine the next day when I took my time and used a million pins.

The strange this is....this one is a bit LOOSE under the arms! What?! It'll be easy to take it in. I just need to wear it again to decide how much to take it in. I bought some more fabric, a bright pink floral in 100% cotton. We're going to Jamaica in October, so I hope to have it done by then! One month, actually!

Harper Cardigan #2

 Earlier this year I posted about my sewing spree which included a grey Harper cardigan which I absolutely love. So I made a second one, which I also love but isn't as practical. 

Looks practical, sort of dressier, good for work, right? Well...I wear too many patterned tops!!

On both cardigans I followed an idea I saw in a FB group, to lower the pockets and sew into the bottom and front bands. I love it! No worrying about lining it up straight and the band helps somewhat to prevent saggy pocket syndrome. More so on this one than the grey one, which stretches out if you even just look at it.

The fabric is a stable knit, with an interesting texture on the front and has a built in lining which is stitched to the outer fabric where the three little holes are, to create the texture. I used it years ago for a dress for Megan and she really liked it. 

I really like this cardigan, but it's not getting worn much! Why can't I wear solids?!

Sewing!!

 Here's a treat--a post with no red scarves! I have one waiting for the cast off and another one almost finished. The one is waiting for a cast off because we were going away for a few days and I wanted to take only one project with me, so I took it off on spare yarn and started a new scarf.

I did some sewing. I was wanting new cardigans, and new t-shirts. I have this bad habit of buying, or making things, with prints.  Then, I struggle because a patterned cardi over a patterned shirt is not my thing.

Somewhere, (I think on Lifting Pins and Needles' YouTube), I saw that Itch to Stitch had a new t-shirt pattern with a separate front piece that had a built in FBA already, as well as darts.  Despite having an already tested and true t-shirt pattern (which might be a little small on me right now), I went ahead and bought it. I had some cream fabric with little gold triangles on it that I thought would be nice. I was going to make it into a cardigan but slapped myself and said no more patterned cardigans!

I measured, did my usual adjustments, including taking 2.5" off in 3 places (0.5" in upper bodice, 1" at the lengthen/shorten line, and 1" at a lower line). I was making the longer length as well. This pattern is drafted for 5'6" which is 5" taller than me, and so thought making it half that difference shorter would work. Well, I guess I'm long in the torso? It came out a little shorter than I thought it would, and also, some pulling around the arms.

I had enough left, so I made another version, putting back the 1/2" in the upper bodice and narrowing the shoulders. I think I actually sized down through the armholes. 

Better, but I was feeling a little meh about this shirt now. I put both of these in the box to take to my mother's. She had lost weight so I figured at least one would fit her. Well, she's put back on a bit. She did take one of the shirts but I couldn't tell which one and I haven't bothered to try on the remainding shirt. I just am not loving my body lately and this shirt showed too much.

I had a fun piece of printed knit in grey and black, that I haven't known what to do with, so I tried another version. I think this fabric is not as stretchy. It felt so tight! I was so unhappy, I didn't even take a picture.

I was still somewhat determined, so I went for a 4th version. This striped fabric is heavier than the cream fabric, but still stretchy, so I was hopeful. I didn't have a lot of it left, and opted for sleeve bands going the opposite way as the sleeves were going to have to be a bit shorter than I wanted, and a hem was going to take up too much.

Success!

I also fixed up a cardigan I made in fall 2018. It's https://swoonpatterns.com/shop/scarf-neck-cardigan/   It's a very light knit and stretched out so bad. The sleeves were way too long, the shoulders sagged onto my arms, I felt dwarfed in the fabric. AND, it had gotten those dreaded tiny holes!! I figured some of them I could hide by rehemming (the hem had been terrible), and some I could hide by taking in the princess seams. It had been sitting in my "I don't want to deal with it" basket for a long time, and the last time I had looked at it, I saw there were also stains! So, really, if this didn't work, no loss.

You can see the tiny holes on the inside of the new hem. Those ones were mainly because of ripping out the old blind stitch hem.

I don't know what happened when I first made this, but even though I was sure I was being careful with the front edges, when it got washed, it went all twisty. I couldn't really get rid of that.

I was going to shorten the sleeves and was about to do that first (because it's the easiest thing LOL), when I suddenly decided maybe I should fix the shoulders first. I wish I had taken pictures because I can't remember exactly what I did. Did I unpick the sleeves? I don't think so. I may have just zipped all around the armhole with the serger. The shoulder seams are still a bit too wide, but it's a HUGE improvement. And, it made the sleeves almost the right length! They are a bit too long now, but acceptable. Cozy.

Then I did the side seams. I do think I unpicked them almost to the armholes, because I wanted to take more off the front part than the back portion. Just these two adjustments made the cardi a million times better. Then I unpicked the princess seams to the bust, and re-pinned, taking out width from the side sections--to hide the pinholes, and to narrow it down. 

So much better! I did have to do the seams a couple times to get them somewhat smooth and blended, since I had obliterated the original curvature of the princess seams. 

And then I re-hemmed. It was a pain! I didn't even bother to do a blind stitch, just did a straight stitch.  

I scrubbed the stains and they mostly came out--or I got new ones? And there's still a couple pin holes, but it's a nice light cardigan and I'll probably still wear it out of the house. I don't seem to have any pictures of it finished! 

I decided I needed brand new cardigans as well. I thought grey would be good because I have a lot of black cardigans but no grey (except a ratty old zip up hoody). I found the free Harper Cardigan by Sinclair Patterns.   How did I not already have this one?! I love Sinclair Patterns. Their petite sizing is great! I do still need to shorten though as I'm right at the bottom of the petite height!  I had this grey interlock left over from a pair of Sunrise Loungers (by Sinclair Patterns). OMG, I just read that post, and see I had made another pair previously!! I had totally forgotten about that first pair! The newer pair are still not great, but comfy around the house and once in awhile, I do wear them in public LOL. 

I think the only adjustment I made was to shift the pockets so one side in joined with the front band, and the bottom goes into the bottom band. I saw that somewhere on the internet, not my idea. I LOVE this cardigan. The bust wrinkle, I think is because it was sticking to the shirt I had on. This is a heavier knit, but not crazy heavy. Warm and cozy, but still with design lines that allows it to look good for work. I have been wearing it SO much!! 

I also made another one. Even though I said I had too many patterned cardigans, I couldn't help myself. I have this heavy knit that is backed by a not stretchy fabric. I used it for a dress for Megan many years ago. I can't find the post!

Apparently, I haven't even taken photos of the cardigan, so I won't continue. I'll come back and edit when I get pictures.