Slow Sewing

I am sort of, on house arrest. My truck needed repairs and once I was done the supply teaching jobs I had committed to, Rob said I couldn't drive it anymore. Then it was almost fixed, and a brake line blew. So it's totally not driveable, even in an emergency. This is the end of week two. At the start of this school year, it was hard to break the old schedule--I left for my lunchtime job at about 10:50, got home at 12:15.  I've broken that routine now and these two weeks of knowing I can't even run to the store has meant my days are totally unbroken! Last week, I spent most mornings after the girls left, having a nap. By Friday though, I must have been caught up on my sleep because I couldn't nap.

I decided to do some sewing, since I could devote my "whole day". Of course, that never happens! I decided to go with the flow, and not rush these projects. First up was a muslin for New Look 6457. Measurements. I know I slacked off all winter. It was a busy, stressful winter. I decided to bite the bullet and do some measurements. Yikes. Some of it had to be monthly bloat! This pattern only goes up to size 16 and that wasn't enough. It used to be, along with a FBA.

I traced out View E bodice. Reviewed how to do a princess seam FBA. Got cutting and spreading. And it was really messing up the armhole. I really questioned it. So I slashed the pieces vertically and added a little bit to each piece (back too). Then I did the FBA. That went much better. I cut out the pieces, and added about 6" to the bottom, thinking I could turn this into a shirt if it works. I questioned though if I needed to widen at the bottom. I mean, I knew I needed more width for the hips....but it just wasn't computing. I quickly basted together the bodice pieces and tried it on.

I don't seem to have a picture. The shoulders were angled out way too much. That usually means you need a smaller size, with a FBA. Or you just have narrow sloping shoulders. Since I already did the FBA, and I knew I needed some extra width, I decided I needed to change the angle of the shoulder "strap"

I pinned out the extra in the neckline so the straps angled where they needed to be. How to get that onto the paper pattern without adding width somewhere (think of those angle drawings in geometry. When you open the triangle on one side, the lines get closer together past the point where they meet). 

You can see on the piece on the right, the slashes I made to the neckline. I did it over two or three slashes so by the time the dart reached the princess seam, it was just a wrinkle. I also needed to take a bit in under the bust. I also had to unpick the seams at the bottom...about six inches. It wouldn't lay flat LOL.

I think I still need to add a smidge to the inside of the strap--once the lining is sewn in, it'll be 5/8" narrower and I think my bra will show. I also feel I need a smidge more under the arm.

 Man, feeling so bloated and huge!

 I think this was the first round, before I opened the lower seams. I left the upper back open because it calls for a zipper. It was really hard to get it over my bust the first time! My bust was about 42" and the waist of this is probably about 37". Not much stretch in a woven! It's been awhile since I've done a top in a woven!

 I realized after doing the paper alterations, I realized I only needed to re-cut the front centre piece. I cut it to the length it was supposed to be. Easier to get on!

I've set it aside to work on other things. I wanted to make a dress for an event on May 10, and then wear it again late in June for Megan's grade 8 grad. I really want to trim myself down again though! And since this is a fitted, lined bodice, it won't be quick to alter if I do slim down.  As well, the dress requires piping and I need to find some co-ordinating fabric to make the piping and who knows when I can get out to the fabric store without a chauffeur! I'll find something else for the May 10 event, and then get back to this one in June.