Sewing has not been enjoyable lately.
I started with measurements....l knew they'd be bigger than last time, but it's still depressing.
I have a woven dress pattern I want to make. I couldn't find any fabric to make a muslin, not even for a top version.
I thought maybe I'd whip up some tank tops to freshen up my closet (as you saw in the last post). I didn't even have enough suitable fabric! I am working on one top that has three front pieces and the fabric is from a thrifted skirt.
I went to Giant Tiger (a Canadian discount store), and bought some sheets and pillowcases (they had $1 pillowcases!). Of course, they're just 100% polyester, feel cheap, but are cute. I cut open the pillowcases. They're made with two side seams, so you end up with a long slim rectangle with the deep hems at either short side. I was hoping they'd have three seams and be two rectangles, but I can cut them. However, they aren't wide enough for me to use as a tank with one front piece.
I couldn't find a plain woven tank pattern in my collection that was large enough. I came across the Sorbetto and remember trying it years ago (a quick search showed I used it for a smocked dress). Apparently the pattern has been updated. There's regular fit for sizes 0-16 and curvy fit for 18-? I measured at about the 18, but I didn't like the larger armholes and I don't feel like I'm an 18 in my structure, if that makes sense. I cut the 16, with plans to add to the side seams from the armholes down.
I downloaded the "ALL" file and then struggled with printing just what I needed. Don't do this unless you're going to print ALL three versions. I was trying to print the 16 and the 18 and ended up wasting paper and getting a size 18 version 3 back, but no version 1...
I contemplated using the pillowcases, and hiding a front seam under the pleat. I did some figuring and folding, and then slapped myself straight. Back to the stash.
I finally landed on this black fabric that I'm sure I made pants from (I mean, I have black woven pants that I sewed myself. This fabric just feels a bit thinner). It is a light fabric, high cotton content, but the drape was a little lacking. No matter, it'll soften up in the wash, right?
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| My ironing board cover is not thick enough, or flat enough! I laid some fabric on top but I really need a new cover. |
I laid it out, adding 1/4" (I think) at the fold and 1/2" on the sides.
I learned my lesson and serged the pieces first. I had another lesson to learn which is in the tank I mention above and hopefully will be the next post. Try it on BEFORE adding bindings or hemming!!
It was too big!! I ripped it out and re-cut using the size 16 (but there was still half an inch in the middle). I also lowered the darts 1" (I really had no idea how much to lower but I could fit it a 1" lowering on the cut pieces). I also lengthened the dart based on how it draped.
I didn't realize you're supposed to iron the pleat all the way down and stitch it closed at the bottom too. Had to go back and fix that (though as you'll see, it would probably have been better if I left it open).
The binding. OMG. It's 1" bias tape, double folded. I made what I thought was a good sized square, and made the continuous bias binding. Then, when cutting, I had a hard time cutting straight! How do you do it? I saw a video and they just cut along the line with no issue! So now my tape was not consistently 1". I was burning myself trying to iron the folds.
The pattern has you fold it to the outside! I could not sew nicely. I had a few spots where the edge popped out and i had to resew. It puckered around the first armhole. When I pinned the neck binding, there was a seam in the binding just off centre of the front! I could not tolerate that! I shifted it around, trying to find a section of the binding that was long enough so there wasn't a seam on the front. I coudn't do it! I ended up with seams just forward of the shoulder seams.
I finished and tried it on.
Ever heard the saying that homemade looks "Becky Home Ec-cy"? This top looks cheap and poorly made. There isn't enough drape. The pleat sewn in at the bottom prevents some floatiness, and something went wrong when I sewed it and it won't stay tucked. The back is a little loose and shapeless. It seems too short for its width. I'm not even going to model it.
Love Notions had a big sale this weekend, and I picked up a couple patterns, including the Harmony Blouse. Hopefully it'll be the one for me to turn into a TNT pattern. As for this tank? I don't think it should even be donated to the thrift store.
I did learn about the edge foot though, so I ordered one on Amazon. Hope it fits my machine! And helps my sewing look like it wasn't topstitched by a drunken monkey.
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