Let's Get Caught Up

I had a really good trip to Value Village earlier this spring. I hadn't planned to go, but I got to Fabricland and they weren't open yet, so I headed over to VV.  There were some great options in the fabric section! I hadn't been in awhile because the last time I did, I scored some great fabric. Large pieces of knit fabrics, possibly rayon knit. So, I didn't need more but I couldn't pass up what I did find. This prompted me to finally sew up something from the last haul.

There was enough of this fabric for a dress, so I had been saving it to make a dress. But I don't really wear dresses in the winter and my dress section of my closet is full. So I decided to make a top and skirt. Because of the busyness of the print, I opted for my good old TNT, New Look 6735.  

 With a scrap, I "made" a cleaning cloth for my flute. Okay. I was practicing in our "music nook" which is next to my sewing room. The scraps hadn't been put away yet. This was the first I grabbed. And yes, I actually went to band wearing that shirt, and with that cleaning cloth. I'm unique.

I made the skirt from New Look 6735 as well. I was tired though, and somehow cut out 2 of the sections that needed 4 and 4 for the sections that needed 2. Although they are similar, one is cut on the fold and one is cut flat. I went ahead and sewed it together anyway. It seems a little flat at the front. I added pockets, following a tutorial I found for adding pockets in a knit dress. I had read to use interfacing on the seams to stop them from stretching out. I used the lightest non-woven/non-knit interfacing I had, but I think I should have used the knit interfacing. Though to me, that would defeat the purpose. I wasn't all that happy with the pockets.

Then I tried the skirt on, and it was too big. So I unpicked the elastic in two places, snipped it and made it shorter, then resewed. It was still too big. So I unpicked the entire elastic, re-did the top corners of the pockets and sewed all the seams slightly smaller, and stitched in the elastic (after shortening it more). It's not tight, but I might be worried if I have a "skinny" day. I haven't worn it yet since spring is still hiding with the groundhog. Well, yesterday wasn't too bad and today looks nice. Edit:  I did wear it, I think with a black top. Comfy though the elastic might need to be tighter still.

I've done a lot of small projects this year, that I haven't posted about. Like, slippers. I needed new slippers. The ones I made for the Florida trip were getting holes. The gold ones I made are nice but I wanted something light for summer. I posted a picture of the ones I made to Facebook and my brother's MIL (who was on the trip) asked for three pairs. My SIL asked for a pair. No problem! It seems to take forever to make more than one pair LOL. I totally messed up one for the MIL (sewed the heel piece on upside down). So she got two pairs to start with. I finished the other pair after.

The icky ones in the middle are the Roadtrip slippers. Yes, I used the same fabric as for the muslin I was just making. Great use for those scraps. Okay, I can't find a picture of the gold ones. I can't find the slippers either. Mmmm....

I've also made a lot of underwear.

 I've had this panel for awhile. I think it's a quote from Buffy the Vampire Slayer, but I like it anyway. However...the fabric felt "tight", but it still had stretch. And when I tried them on, it was obviously not enough stretch. I could wear them, but I won't.

I did have to piece my bands and made the leg ones a little narrower to fit them all on the piece.

Then I went to do this pair. I noticed this fabric also had that glossy, slick feel to it. I cut the back out and then questioned if I was going to end up with another bad pair. So for the front, I use my colour block pattern, and did my regular 95/5 Cotton-Lycra fro the front sides and the bands. This pair is so, so comfortable and supportive!

These are some I made in the winter. I struggled so much with the waist band of the blue pair. It just didn't seem to be long enough. And when I tried them on, I was shocked. Then I laid them with the other ones....I don't know what happened. 

I had a stack of underwear that didn't really fit me. Some were before I altered the pattern to fit me better, some were RTW. I decided to take the ones I've sewn and fix them up--add an upper belly wedge for a bit more length. This pair I also cut a new waistband. Much better now. 

I have some light coloured pants, so for a few pairs I did the backside in white, and then a print on the front--my pants are not usually as tight at the front, and you don't have to worry about the "squat test". Nothing is worse than squatting and finding out the print on your undies suddenly show through!

When I was picking up new solids from The Fabric Snob, I found this fabric in the clearance section. 

Thought it would make cute underwear. I washed it, and the selvage did not shrink the same as the rest of the fabric. It was very puckery. This is why you shouldn't include the selvage in your pieces. At least not until it's been washed. I snipped off the selvage to let the fabric relax. I was worried it didn't have good recovery so I did the bands in white. Hubby says they're fine, but when he sleeps, the fly is not ....containing him...the overlap is not enough or the opening is too low...

I Bought Yarn...

...back on Feb 9 LOL.

I got orders from previous clients for more Christmas stockings. So, I needed more yarn! Five balls of Loops & Threads "Impeccable" in green, red and cream, 127.5gr each. I wish my fabric spending was as frugal as my yarn spending this year. However, I think I am doing pretty good at using up fabric that I buy, as well as a few projects to use up stash.

Yarn In:  200gr+637.5gr=837.5gr
Yarn Out: 633 gr
Balance:  204.5gr IN
Costs: $11.23+22.55=$33.78/141 days = $0.24/day

Frugal Roxie

Megan's program for this year's competitions was "Roxie" from Chicago. We kept an eye out for a new dress, but we couldn't find anything. In the meantime, we decided to alter her current dress. We went to the fabric store to find some trim to make the skirt more swishy and longer. I liked a sequined fringe trim, but Megan didn't. We found this fabric with columns of sequins. I didn't think it was blingy enough, but Megan liked it. We also picked up some sequined elastic trim.

The columns of sequins are sewn down with a continuous strand of clear thread.

So. As you cut the length of the fabric, you've cut that clear thread. So, all those columns need to be secured. A dab of glue. 

 Then I sliced up between the columns, sometimes singles, sometimes doubles and a few triples. I sliced up to various lenghts. Then I glued it to the sequined trim and then hand stitched that to the skirt/dress seam. We created a headpiece with a feathered headband from the dollar store, with the sequined trim over it. We really got lucky with that headband!

 When Megan took to the ice for her first competition, I went up to the top of the stands to try to get a good view to film. I heard some women say "I love her headpiece. You can just tell this is going to be a sassy piece". Yes!!

Megan had three competitions and a couple tests with this costume, but on this last test day, feathers were coming out of the headpiece (which sat on her temple, a little closer to her ear). I didn't have any glue, thread, or double stick tape!

 I never managed to get a picture of her in the dress all season! I  would have liked the skirt to be a bit fuller over her original dress, but I still thinks it all works fine. I would have liked it a bit longer, but you don't want it to get in the way!

Swim Suit

Last year when I bought the coverall pattern for my husband, I decided to pick up a swim suit pattern or two (I'm sure I bought three patterns...what was the third one? The only other Kwik sew pattern I seem to have is for a bra. I thought I bought that a long time ago. Maybe I only bought two patterns). One of the first three bathing suits I made for myself is nearly dead (it's just for our hot tub now), and although I made some bikinis and a one piece for our last cruise (Oct 2017), I decided it was time for a new suit. I've seen some awesome fabric online that I wanted to get so I need to muslin a new pattern. Looking at that link, I'd say both these suits are dead. I've been wearing the floral one lately; I think the other one died a while ago. I'm not sure it was actually swim suit material.

This pattern is Kwik Sew 4182. Since buying this pattern, I have really dived (LOL) into independent designers but I went with this one because I had it and our printer is dead. Today, on my Facebook "Memories", I complained 7 years ago that there weren't very many swim suit patterns on etsy for young girls. Well, this has all changed with the explosion of independent designers! As long as you have a printer, you never need to buy a "Big 4" pattern again.

I opted for the tankini, View A, with regular straps. Maybe if I get the fit right, I could wear a halter neck, but it always pulls on my neck. Swim suit fabric is stretchy, so the weight of my bosom pulls the strap down. I felt the legs on View A were lower cut than on View B, but they use the same pieces. I'm pretty sure they are lower than my original suits. I do prefer a higher cut.

I couldn't figure out why the bottoms looked so huge. I know I've put on weight in my bust and belly, but not my butt! Then I realized I cut them on a fold, instead of just doubled. So they are essentially 5/8"+5/8" too big. Phew. 

I shortened the bodice a smidge, but I didn't take too much off because I wanted to make sure it was long enough to cover my belly. I didn't do a proper FBA, but graded out at the top edge to an XL and I think I made a new size, XXL, for the bust. I had originally thought about turning the lining into a shelf bra, with some elastic, but I realized that I had no idea where to do that on the lining piece!! In the end, I think it's fine without it. 

I had such a hard time getting the front piece sewn to the lining at the bust, where the elastic shirring is. I could manage to get it lined up, but the very top end wasn't getting gathered and it was a hot mess. Ripping it out a few times made a little hole in the lining. 

Argh. I sewed this so many times. Finally just left it.

I know that without the top elastic and straps, it's near impossible to get an accurate fit. I could see that the top edge was too long. Elastic will bring it in, but you don't want it gathered. 

It also felt a bit snug across my middle. 

 Adding the elastic and the straps did help a lot. However, I think because the rouching didn't go high enough, the top edge is a bit high and has funny wrinkles instead of gathers. I could probably gather it better with some hand stitching. I did open up the elastic and made it quite a bit tighter across the front top which helped with that floppy dip at the center. I don't think I have a finished picture.

When I tried the bottoms on without the top elastic, I could tell they were too short for me. I like bottoms that go up to my natural waist, which is quite high, at my belly button. Otherwise, they just fall off, no matter what I try. So I cut a wide piece for a band. I wanted elastic in it. But how to add the elastic at the top fold and keep it straight while sewing it all together...I didn't think I could stitch it down straight, didn't know if I wanted the stitching to show, thought I could stitch it on the wrong side.  Lined it up several times, yet somehow when I sewed the band to the bottoms the stitching ended up on the right side...I just picked it out. The elastic doesn't stay quite at the top of the fold. I think next time, if I had to do this, I'd cut an outside and an inside to the band and put the elastic in the seam allowance at the top. But that would mean a bit more bulk. It probably doesn't need the elastic, but it makes me feel better.

I don't have a finished picture. The bottoms are a bit loose, even though I already unpicked the bum elastic once and re-sewed it. I made a XL front and a L back for the bottoms. I first used a piece of elastic halfway between the lengths given for L and XL. I have a tiny tush. The rouching on the top tends to sag.

In the end, I don't think this will work for the fabric I want to buy. The gathers mean much of the pattern is smooshed up. I think for the new fabric I will need a smooth front suit. Yikes. I do have one but I don't wear it much. Patterns For Pirates just came out with Minute Maillot and I love the high legs on that one, so perhaps if I lower the back, raise the leg holes, add the contrast bust band, and with the optical illusion of the print, it should look better than that blue blob :)

Slow Sewing

I am sort of, on house arrest. My truck needed repairs and once I was done the supply teaching jobs I had committed to, Rob said I couldn't drive it anymore. Then it was almost fixed, and a brake line blew. So it's totally not driveable, even in an emergency. This is the end of week two. At the start of this school year, it was hard to break the old schedule--I left for my lunchtime job at about 10:50, got home at 12:15.  I've broken that routine now and these two weeks of knowing I can't even run to the store has meant my days are totally unbroken! Last week, I spent most mornings after the girls left, having a nap. By Friday though, I must have been caught up on my sleep because I couldn't nap.

I decided to do some sewing, since I could devote my "whole day". Of course, that never happens! I decided to go with the flow, and not rush these projects. First up was a muslin for New Look 6457. Measurements. I know I slacked off all winter. It was a busy, stressful winter. I decided to bite the bullet and do some measurements. Yikes. Some of it had to be monthly bloat! This pattern only goes up to size 16 and that wasn't enough. It used to be, along with a FBA.

I traced out View E bodice. Reviewed how to do a princess seam FBA. Got cutting and spreading. And it was really messing up the armhole. I really questioned it. So I slashed the pieces vertically and added a little bit to each piece (back too). Then I did the FBA. That went much better. I cut out the pieces, and added about 6" to the bottom, thinking I could turn this into a shirt if it works. I questioned though if I needed to widen at the bottom. I mean, I knew I needed more width for the hips....but it just wasn't computing. I quickly basted together the bodice pieces and tried it on.

I don't seem to have a picture. The shoulders were angled out way too much. That usually means you need a smaller size, with a FBA. Or you just have narrow sloping shoulders. Since I already did the FBA, and I knew I needed some extra width, I decided I needed to change the angle of the shoulder "strap"

I pinned out the extra in the neckline so the straps angled where they needed to be. How to get that onto the paper pattern without adding width somewhere (think of those angle drawings in geometry. When you open the triangle on one side, the lines get closer together past the point where they meet). 

You can see on the piece on the right, the slashes I made to the neckline. I did it over two or three slashes so by the time the dart reached the princess seam, it was just a wrinkle. I also needed to take a bit in under the bust. I also had to unpick the seams at the bottom...about six inches. It wouldn't lay flat LOL.

I think I still need to add a smidge to the inside of the strap--once the lining is sewn in, it'll be 5/8" narrower and I think my bra will show. I also feel I need a smidge more under the arm.

 Man, feeling so bloated and huge!

 I think this was the first round, before I opened the lower seams. I left the upper back open because it calls for a zipper. It was really hard to get it over my bust the first time! My bust was about 42" and the waist of this is probably about 37". Not much stretch in a woven! It's been awhile since I've done a top in a woven!

 I realized after doing the paper alterations, I realized I only needed to re-cut the front centre piece. I cut it to the length it was supposed to be. Easier to get on!

I've set it aside to work on other things. I wanted to make a dress for an event on May 10, and then wear it again late in June for Megan's grade 8 grad. I really want to trim myself down again though! And since this is a fitted, lined bodice, it won't be quick to alter if I do slim down.  As well, the dress requires piping and I need to find some co-ordinating fabric to make the piping and who knows when I can get out to the fabric store without a chauffeur! I'll find something else for the May 10 event, and then get back to this one in June.

New Addition

Although I haven't blogged much, things have been going on. Finished a pair of pants, I'm working on a swim suit, I finished the edges of some table runners for my SIL. Been mostly in planning mode though. I have some new fabric!

 This piece is a woven and reminded me immediately of the shirts the men wore at my parents' 40th anniversary renewal party! I thought about making Rob a dress shirt but he recently got a huge assortment of very, very dress shirts from his BIL. So he is all set in the dress shirt division!

 This very large piece (I estimate it at 6m) says it's 80% rayon, 20% linen. It has a nice drape but still some body. I'm picturing  New Look 6457 in view E. I need to muslin it first though. And I don't have enough similar fabric to make a wearable muslin. Do I just scrap it together? I also thought about flowy summer pants but the girls said no. They always so no to that. Hopefully I have enough left over for a top, since I have blue shorts and blue pants, it will fit right into my blue capsule, and maybe the beige capsule. I'm picky though. If it doesn't match the beige pants, it'll need to contrast enough that it looks intentional!

The other great  gain is a "new" sewing machine! I saw a post on Freecycle for a 40 year old Kenmore. I haven't been lucky on Freecycle in a while, but I emailed and asked about it. It had been regularly maintained and used until recently but now seems stiff to turn the wheel and skips stitches. Okay, doesn't sound too bad. Skipped stitches could simply be a new needle!  It wasn't too far, so I didn't feel too bad asking Rob to drive me over (my truck is dead).

It has the manual (good, because it's different enough than my other Kenmores, when it comes to the dials), and the proper case, and the foot pedal! What it doesn't have is any extra feet or attachments. We sprayed it down with a silicone spray and let it sit over night. 

 Look at that zig zag, right on the edge!! I've never been able to do that with either of the Kenmores I've had!  The stitch lengths go from 8 to 12. There's no 6 like on my machine, but it does have a "B". This creates a stitch which seems longer than the 6 on my machine. And lately my machine is not very good at being consistent when I change speed.

 The stretch straight stitch and stretch "smocking" stitch had some tension issues. The bobbin case was quite loose, so tightening that helped. Also, this is a woven, with a universal needle, so not really the right application for either of those stitches.

 I decided to wash the bottom of the cover in my dishwasher. After it was all clean, I noticed the instructions. Well, technically I followed them, especially since I don't use the dry cycle.

My collection! At first, I thought I would give this machine to my mom. She just does repairs (mainly it was my dad that did them LOL). She could use the zipper foot and button tools from her machine. And it could go in her machine's cabinet. Then I would take her Kenmore, which is more advanced than either of these. I'd still be able to do zippers and button holes on my Kenmore (the one on the left. Confusing because it's my older acquired machine, but newer in age LOL). Then I realized there's no base for mom's machine. I'm not sure it would sit on a desk. We talked about me just taking her whole desk, but I LOVE my desk. And with the machine in a desk, you can't do free arm sewing. That is a must to me. So, it looks like for now, I will just keep it. I threaded it up and intended to use it for basting only in my next project (swim suit). But then I did some twin needle work with it...

So, so far, I've sewn with four different Kenmores, all different models. I love them, especially now I can do a proper zig zag. My MIL also has a Kenmore. She was trying to sell it before she moved, but no one would buy it so she just kept it. Maybe one day it'll be joining my collection! I saw it once, but I didn't pay attention to the model or anything. She's had it since the late 70s I think. And if anything ever went wrong, I know my FIL would have taken care of it!

Still here!

I've been pretty busy with work. Not much knitting going on, but I am working on some more custom Christmas stockings. Not much sewing either, though I just finished another pair of Sequoia pants in corduroy. Or, rather, "lint roller pants". They work excellent as lint rollers.
Upcoming--new swimsuit! Our printer is dead so I can't print any of the PDF patterns I keep buying, but I can make the ones I've already printed (Sequoia, for example) or the "Big 4" patterns I have. It's time for a new swimsuit. The last one I made is still fine but the older ones are toast so I need some more basic suits. And then a dress for me, for Megan's GRADE 8 GRADUATION!!!

More Blankets for Seniors

I've been working non-stop on blankets for seniors. Our bins are full of hats and mitts and scarves that don't get  worn. I'm sewing sweaters instead of knitting them. No one is having babies. Barely even gave any gifts this Christmas. So, blankets for a charity that actually wants blankets is a good option for now.

 The top two I already blogged about.

 This yarn is Bernat "Masala" in this beautiful green. You can read about the yarn, and what else I made with it HERE. I don't wear the sweater much. I seem to be warm most of the time so if I get cold I throw a cardigan on. And this sweater is too bulky under a coat. I never got around to sewing buttons on the opening. It's not a project I'd rip out, but I just don't find it flattering or practical. Oh well.

 I did a corner to corner rectangle.

The yarn actually washes up really well in the machine. I have to say though, I was glad when I was done because the yarn seemed to make me congested. It never got covered during basement renovations. This blanket weighs 311gr. I have a bit more than that left on the cone, so I'll probably do another blanket.

This blanket is a rectangle granny square using Bernat "Denim Style". I really liked this yarn when it first came out but had trouble deciding what to make. I didn't have enough for a sweater, and when I bought some at a thrift store, it was a different dye lot. Then I made a scarf to sell, but it never sold, so I decided to rip it out and make the blanket. Dye lots be damned. They didn't look all that different. 

 It got to a point where I had the required length, but not the width. So I decided to just add onto the two sides, going back and forth.  I'm not sure if this is a different dye lot showing, or just the consequence of going back and forth instead of in rounds, but there is some difference on the two sides I extended.

The cream border was a plain worsted weight yarn that matched the cream Denim Style really well. This blanket ended up at 322gr.

Yarn In:  200gr
Yarn Out: 633 gr
Balance:  433gr OUT
Costs: $11.23/40 days = $0.28/day

I Bought Yarn

I'm working on a mega blanket for Crochet Blankets for Seniors. Well, size wise, it is the requested size. But it's Mega because I'm using a lot of different yarns. Just worsted, regular yarns, but lots. Greens, browns, creams. However, my selection of cream and brown was a little low. So I messaged the organizer and she had some to donate. Three balls of Bernat "Satin" in brown and a ball of something in cream that was too thick. So I went to Wal-Mart and picked up a ball of "ivory" Bernat "Satin" and a green. It's a bit brighter of a green than I wanted but it adds a nice accent. I'm not counting the donated yarn in my totals. Previously I tried to keep a separate tally but it got confusing.

I know I really should keep track of my fabric and sewing pattern purchases.  It's harder though. A small scrap of fabric left over is not always as usable as a part ball of yarn. And how to keep track? Different fabrics are different widths. So I'm just trying to be reasonable, frugal and buy fabric that I can see using quickly. However. My printer broke. Since it has broke I have bought...four patterns? And I have several others that I hadn't gotten printed yet.

I do have several blankets to show off! So the Yarn Out total here is a total farce.

Yarn In:  100gr x 2= 200gr
Yarn Out: 0gr
Balance:  200gr IN
Costs: $11.23/37 days = $0.30/day